You have the same 24 hours in a day as Beyonce
...I absolutely despise when someone tells me this when I stress over time management. Because beyonce's 24 hours are dedicated to beyonce, My 24 hours are spent like most of the rest of the world, divided.
in the shift of dirt-baggers to gym trainers, professional climbers remain fine tuned machines, but with unattainable resources to the everyday person. So, how does the average person who has a day of work, cooking and caring for families, and regular life find time for the gym? Very carefully. Or, you know, like most, whenever you can.
When I first started climbing I didn't know anyone in Dallas, and when a coworker took me to the gym, it was the only place I knew to go make friends. So, naturally I spent a good amount of time there, virtually everyday after work. Because, if I wanted to make friends, I was going to have to get good at this.
How does one manage to get a work out in, climb time, and still maintain a regular social life with responsibilities? i did what I saw everyone else doing, and I couldn't do a pull-up if my life depended on it. Everyday I went home and used my countertops, my couches, yoga blocks, until I hit the ground trying to learn to do a push-up. I would exhaust myself trying to eat and drink enough protein to sustain an army, and I was miserable. There had to be a better way, but watching the videos on youtube consisted of prime athletes in expensive facilities using equipment I can only dream of ever getting my hands on...and i literally had no free time, i had a nice apartment and my showers were still with wet wipes on the way to the gym after work.
Frustrated, I went to the gym with my sketch book, and would sit watching people climb, and just draw the different muscular contractions and engagements throughout the body in each different sequence, and started catering my personal yoga practice to mimic. Instant game changer, if you're curious how that turned out. (Even made a workshop later designed specifically for climbers-hmu or slide into my dm's if you're interested in bringing it to your gym cause your girl needs work.)
So, that helped, but not everyone is a yogi, and truthfully any one exercise can only go so far. but in the short time i've lived in denver, i've already met so many skilled and insanely strong climbers. what the shit have they been doing?! so, i asked. while i won't give away people's personalized exercises, these next few blogs are going to consist of not only huge social issues i am passionate about, hacks to being a dainty dirtbag, but i'm going to add in some very specific strength and technique practices. so, i'd love to hear from you, what are some area's that you would like to improve? i'm down to work on them with you.