Social Assessment.

So there’s this social measure that scales how insane you’re acceptable behavior level is based on how attractive you are. The cute to crazy ratio. I think this same method applies in gym culture interactions as well. shall we?



When a climber begins their journey, beta spraying is inevitable. Particularly in the search for a mate, because, we all know that any gym for any sport or recreational activity is hunting grounds for the  homosapien .

To break it down further, the v0-v3/5.6-5.9 range gym rat is easy prey. Those are the new-news who insecure climbers have something immediate to offer, instant gratification. “You should try using your heel on that scoopy hold,” and suddenly, the new, inexperienced, unsuspecting climber thinks you must be a god.

But what happens to the v4-v7/5.10-5.12 crusher? This crag babe has an easier time making friends, as birds of a feather do indeed flock together, and the average climber is in this range. so, socially this little geodude doesn't struggle much, and that killer instinct to knock them out and drag them back to the cave is less.

we come full circle with the v8+/5.13+ dirt bag, as this person has turned the tables and now has something to offer themselves. BEta, training tips, and is easy to brag on. thus, the brave social warriors gather with hopes of love in their little beating hearts! because, couples who crush together, stay together, right?


don't think that these rules don't apply outside romance in belaytionships, because it certainly does. While personalities may vary, these attitudes are still pretty common and easy to spot. Do not be one of these stereotypes.


The wuss

  • is obviously a day pass, probably wearing high socks in their rentals.
  • gets halfway, or god forbid all the way to the top of a problem, cries for help.
  • tapes all of their fingers because it hurts.
  • does a pull up and says climbing is easy.

The yuppie

  • just got their membership, don't worry they'll tell you.
  • wears harness in the bouldering pit.
  • takes out chalk sock in the sport ring.
  • rainbows up jugs and thinks they're a prodigy.

The beta sprayer

  • typically an intermediate climber.
  • Is way too excited about their obtained knowledge.
  • will not ask if you need help.
  • will tell you the intended beta even if you got to the top.

THe groupie

  • climbs socially, will bail on you to chase the attractive climber around.
  • asks questions like, "do they climb at least v5?"
  • is more concerned with extracurricular activities than climbing.
  • will do nothing that compromises "cool factor" in public.

WAste of talent

  • climbs your project as a warm up
  • seems like a dick, but is legitimately being humble
  • does not discriminate, definitely a good friend

THe alpinist

  • is only climbing in the gym in summer
  • prefers the outdoors, all will hear about this.
  • you will never see them actually send anything, but projects hard af.
  • wears literally all their gear at all times.

so, next time you find yourself at the plastic crag, keep an eye out for these Wiley characters! And be sure not to be one! You are welcome.


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Stay positive.


KariDane Matlock